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Interpreting Compression Tests–ASE Practice Questions (VIDEO)

Description Technician A has just completed a running compression test using a mechanical compression gauge. Technician B says that the test is used to check the volumetric efficiency of the engine. Technician A says that the higher-than-expected readings indicate a...

Do I Need a Tune-up?

If you’re like me, you might cringe a little. More often than not, they’re hoping this magical procedure will fix some mysterious issue with their car. But let’s break it down: what is a tune-up, anyway? Most dictionaries describe a tune-up as “a general adjustment to...

PSA: Be Safe With Brake Cleaner

If you work in a shop (and if you’re reading this, chances are you do), you are undoubtedly familiar with brake cleaner. And, if you know the scent of brake cleaner, you probably know that using it is not great for your health if it comes in contact with your skin,...

Compression Testing | ASE Practice Questions (VIDEO)

Description Technician A has just completed a dry compression test of a four-cylinder engine. All four cylinders are below specification by about the same amount. After performing a wet compression test, values remained unchanged. What could cause this condition? A)...

When a Voltmeter Isn’t Enough (Video)

Description With the variety of electronically controlled systems on a modern automobile, the days when a test light or simple voltmeter was enough to diagnose problems are long gone. Using a digital storage oscilloscope (DSO) can make troubleshooting faster and more...

P0420/P0430—The #1 DTC in the Country

DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) P0420 and P0430 are generic industry codes and part of the OBD-II standards. The descriptor labels the code(s) “Catalytic Converter Efficiency Below Threshold – Bank 1 (or 2)”. And the number one part sold to repair this problem is a...

The first step I now take in vehicle diagnostics

by | Jan 9, 2025

The following four vehicles (which certainly are varied) all came to me for repair and I did not identify the root of their problems immediately. And that’s because I was staying stuck in my ways and not adapting to changing vehicles. Let’s examine.

  • Situation One: A 2019 Nissan Versa sets a P0102 DTC.
  • Situation Two: A 1978 Harley-Davidson FLH begins blowing black plumes of smoke, misfiring, and generally becoming unrideable at idle and under power.
  • Situation Three: A 2014 GMC Terrain displays an inoperable backup camera.
  • Situation Four: A 2013 Harley-Davidson Street Glide intermittently loses all gauge operation during high RPM, low throttle events.

That’s four very disparate vehicles, no? But all of the problems listed had the same root cause: the battery was not up to snuff.

So now, when I have a diag to approach, I check the battery first. Some of you probably do this as well. Those who do not? Maybe give it a whirl. The following video explains it pretty succinctly:

Solid advice here. Those momentary voltage dips can cause all sorts of havoc, and the worst part is that havoc often looks very different than the problems we expect to see from a bad battery, like the traditional dim lights or sluggish starting.

Succeed where I have failed. Test the battery. Save some time.

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